meta: absinthe, castles, ghosts, ink on page, ink in flesh

I came here to make good on a promise to myself… and then, hopefully see some sights.
Twenty years ago, I went through a divorce. It was the worst pain I’ve ever known. I made a promise: I’d figure out how I helped create that hell, heal the part of me responsible, and write a book for the millions of men who would one day follow the same trail. My archives are littered with the corpses of half-finished drafts, starved out by immaturity and unhealed wounds.
But three months ago, the book came into focus.
Crystal clear.
I came to Prague to finish it.
I found a modest apartment across the river, in the neighborhood where the locals live.
No lamps, just a single overhead light that felt like an interrogation room…. so, I bought candles.
At night, my little IKEA desk became a séance table.
The veil grew thin.
The muse arrived regularly.
Some days, I wrote at café tables under old street lamps with a glass of the local juice in hand.
But most of it?
It happened right there at that little table.
I learned the rhythm of the crosswalks.
Became a regular at the local market, buying bread, meat, cheese, chocolate and wine to subsist on during my writing sessions.
Discovered that Tram 9 is my best friend.
Found the laundromat.….and wrote, constantly, for days on end.
The first draft is complete.
 
 
 
To celebrate, I decided to dress up & treat myself to a Saturday night out. I picked up some of the fine European hosiery from the nearby Calzedonia store that felt like fine silk woven on an alien sex planet (that’s the thing about fine hosiery, ladies – half of it is how it dances with light & shadow, the other half is how it lights up your nerve endings.)
I made my way to “the biggest nightclub in Central Europe”.
Upon arriving, it was swarming with local douchebags.
Hard pass.
Looking for a Plan B, I wandered down a side street and found a little hole in the wall bar. I ordered an overpriced Heineken. No Uquell on tap? What kind of establishment is this, anyway?
A sexy slavic woman with sultry eyes & wickedly tempting curves locked eyes with me, too, my hand and answered that question.
“Do you want a sexy time? Toooouching? Dancing? Seeeexxxy touching? We go have sexy time. Private, yes?”
I politely declined, accidentally bought her an overpriced bottle of Prosecco and she went away.
It all made sense now.
Soon another employee was flirting with me.
She was fun. A nerd at heart. She made jokes and puns that spanned Latin, French, German, English, Italian & Czech.
“Okay, let’s talk about my boobs now”, trying to get the conversation back onto business.
“I don’t want to have a private dance, but I want to respect your time”, I told her.
“You respect me too much for private, eh?”
“Yes, I do… but I understand what’s going on here. Can I just slip you some cash when the bosses aren’t looking?”
She went to the bathroom and left her purse with me. I slipped 800ck into her purse to circumvent the establishment’s accounting practices as a gesture.
It’s all I had. 
The Prague Castle (all castles, really), beg the question – what kind of commitment were these people possessed of? How did they create such intricate and expressive architecture without the tools we have today, and why don’t WE do it anymore?
My Dad and I (thought departed), have a song.
While visiting the Banksy museum in Old Town, I approached the exhibit about Banksy’s piece in Utah (a national treasure). Our song began playing.
“Hi, Dad. Fancy running into you here in Prague! Not that surprised, though.”
Maybe his was one of the voices I’ve been hearing through that thin veil.
 
 
 
 
Before the trip, I designed a tattoo to commemorate this moment.
Got it done in Prague.
It’s perfect.
“Show, Don’t Tell” – the song that pulled me into the world of RUSH and changed my life.
It’s also the cardinal rule of storytelling – and…. A credo for proof over proclamations.
Drank absinthe – prepared by one who knew how.
I devoured czech style goulash in Old Town.
Feasted on it at a cafe where Czech rebels would gather and plan revolts.
I had it one last time in the Prague airport, right before boarding the plane to Denmark.
Prague, you gorgeous muse –
you gave me more than I hoped for.

… my name is literally, all over you, Prague. 

I will be back. 

Next Stop: Copenhagen

If you enjoyed that – you’ll happy to know that I’m releasing a book soon.
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